CURRENT POSTINGS  FOR  DECEMBER  2000 

Alternatives to the Tokyo Roki LFS706 oil filter, Suzuki p/n 16510-34E00 are:

WIX 51359 Purolator ML16818

Purolator also make a filter for the Ford Probe? or Escort? [Sorry, forgot to write down the p/n; it might be L14220?] that measures about .5mm larger in diameter; ergo, there is plenty of overlap on the mating surface to seal adequately. It is longer, & has more filtration area, but does *not* appear to have an intrinsic bypass valve. This might be an option for those riders in the tropics or similar warm environments where the oil will never be thick enough to need a bypass, provided the filter is changed more frequently than the schedule in the manual (which seems to be about every third oil change. Wow!)

At any rate, the option of buying an oil filter for about 1/2 the price charged at the Suzuki dealership is, to me, a pleasant alternative.

Just got in from the garage with the latest mod.
Remember the carb mod for balancing that was posted some time ago? That got me thinking because Carbtune to permanent extensions for
bikes that are difficult to get to. I got one and fitted it. The problem is getting the thing on. Going by Suzuki you have to take the carbs off, but that
looked a right nightmare. So I looked at anyway you could get to the vacuum point without dismantling too much. The airbox has to come out, no
problem. Then you can get to the vacuum point from underneath with some long nosed pliers. You have to pull the radiator hose to one side but
with a torch you can see the rubber cap. Get that off with the pliers, soak the hose in hot water to soften it up a bit and push it on with the pliers.
You can route the pipe up by the side of the radiator expansion bottle and tie it up with a cable tie. Then when you want to balance the carbs it's
there. The other take off is easy to get to.
However does anyone know how to keep the petrol flowing if your using the vacuum to balance the carbs? If you do let me know I haven't worked
that one out yet.

A few weeks ago I got onto the forum page looking some help in the exhaust area. In making the claim that my SV makes 100 hp seems to have started a huge
pissing contest. Enclosed are a dyno graph and pictures of myself at Daytona this past October. I've won the lightweight superbike and GT Lights national championships in both 1999 and 2000.

If anyone is interested in modifying there motor to this level please contact Brian or Rollie @ Valley Racing (Chicago) 708-849-9117.

I will be racing in the Mid-west for the 2001 season and will be at Daytona in the fall.

So if there are still doubters out there basically come to the track and put up or shut up. can't argue with that....

I'm 5'2", 95 lbs, 29 inch seam and am lowering the SV650S with the front forks through my dealer and seat is going to Sargeant for remodelling.

My dealer is very reluctant to drilling a hole in my rear shock. I want to make it an 'all around even lowering'. They don't think it's safe. On another hand, I've been told the rear shocks are sloppy and if I lower the rear, I might bounce on the wheel.. so I've been suggested to get aftermarket shocks that are stiffer and that I can lower.. 

Please advise.. my byke's coming this January (yahoo!!)  Not sure about this one...calling all SV tech-heads!!! If you can offer advice please get in touch with Sophie sophieg@home.com  

Sophie, you would have been better posting this in the Forum section where others could see the feedback you get and apply it themselves if they wish...

can you please add a link to my website:  www.geocities.com/fenderbegone    (done)

P.S. the sv650s is now available in the US you might want to update that information. done Thanks for the great resource it has helped alot.  good

As I have read the info on carbs re-jetting etc but they don't say for what exhaust they have , as the info is just for U.S bikes or is this info the same for UK . same for both I believe (someone correct me if I'm wrong)

Also I have a 2000 modal and have some small problems one is the clunk from the forks I thought it was from the head bearings and got my dealer to look at them when it was in for its first service they were ok and it was the norm.  All standard SV forks clunk, do a search on this site for 'clunk' and you'll get loads of hits back, we've discussed it time and time again...heavier oil sorts it...don't worry about it otherwise..

2nd prob is the paint on the arm for the back calliper keeps flaking off at the weld, I am on my second and its going the same way. Yes, many have this problem, if it under warranty then push to get it sorted and the wear, I would suggest, is unreasonable if it's still within the 2 year warranty.

3rd is when you accelerate hard its like there is one cylinder is lagging behind and at low revs it misses but not all the time again the dealer looked at it found nothing any ideas. Could be damp in the front spark plug, it is probably electrical related...post a msg to the forum...

Last one is there any chance that you can put up a notice on the web site for any sv owners in the Tayside and Angus area if they would like to get together for ride out weather permitting they can email me. Well here it is....and you can use this site for the purpose too : http://clubs.yahoo.com/clubs/sv650rideouts  

I've been with your site from the beginning but haven't had a chance until now to post these pic's of my 99 bike.

Upgrades include : Full M4 race system, tinted black screen, seat cowl from pyramid plastics, front and rear suspension upgrade, gold chain & alloy sprocket, gold pegs & bar ends, cut down rear fender and added smaller plate, N.W.S hugger.

bike4.jpg      bike1.jpg      bike3.jpg       bike 2.jpg

Just to say I'm away on business for a week commencing 4th December so if you have posted emails to me they won't get looked at until I return. If you're thinking of sending any to me please hold off until the middle of next week....THANKS!

How about http://www.suzuki-sv650.de/  for your website's link section? It's about racing the SV650S, modifications and more (german). I've just added it...

Here's an update to ian@netgates.co.uk  guide to brake calipers. 

I did mine last year twice in fact the first time was the same method that ian@netgates.co.uk  described but this did not last long as the main problem was corrosion behind the dust seals. These are the smaller O rings on the outside of each cylinder of the calipers. The corrosion is the white powdery stuff which collects behind the seal causing it to grip the pistons. Hook out the seals & scrape the corrosion away grease the cylinders with caliper grease then replace the seals & the cleaned pistons. Caliper grease is specially made so it does not affect brake fluid or damage seals. It does prevent seals being damaged as most people tend to force the pistons back in. ian@netgates.co.uk  used G clamps to return the pistons I managed with my thumbs. 

I also found the rear brake to be the worst for corrosion. Check the pins that retain the brake pads if they are seized buy new ones BEFORE you start & drill the old ones out. Remember copper grease for pins of course with all of the grease remember not to use excessive amounts & DON'T GET ANY ON THE PADS OR DISKS. When finished clean up with brake cleaner & test brakes before use then take it easy when first riding the bike.

think I've find another site for chaffing on the body work. Inside the front left fairing, I've found that the main wiring loom rubs the fairing. On mine it's rubbed nearly a mm away (how thick are these panels?). For now I've covered the area with duck tape. 

Has anyone else had this problem?

Postings from November now placed in the Archive Section....postings for December will be placed here.

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