FEBRUARY 2000

For Sale, URGENTLY: SV650S, blue, T-Reg, with lower fairing, and rear hugger, only 3,300 miles on the clock, in immaculate condition, also has weather cover, and wheel alarm/lock. A few accessories too. Ģ4100, or best offer.

Also, helmet, leather jacket and trousers, and Sidi boots, etc.

Make an offer, if it fits. Please contact Tel: (01926) 811069 (UK), or send an e-mail to posse@egdesign.demon.co.uk

Cool site, loads of info. I feel like a novie when I see how much everyone else knows. (the power of shared knowledge....or something like that)

Anyway, looking for some advice. I got quoted at Ģ200 for a set of Dragon Evo's supplied and Fitted, and was wondering if this was a good price. It was from a Yamaha dealer down the road, would my Suzuki dealer do a better deal for me? (maybe, maybe not...I bought my SV and BT56s' from a Honda dealer..)

Also, I'm 14 Stone (only 18 year old so I ain't fat!!) but I sometimes find when I am leant over I hit a bump and the back end feels kinda slimmy. Does anyone know a good rear suspension preload that would maybe lessen this? (it's on six right now, which is the second hardest) or is it just a case of me need to get used to it? I was going to get the forks thickened up with a heavier oil, again though what seems to do the trick...........

cheers all, the help is appreciated. I might be able to make the rideout (although I am from glasgow) and think I probably couldn't keep up as my sv's restricted! sob sob (restricted to what? 125mph?...seriously, is it a 33bhp restriction? what top end do you get out of that?)

Guess who left his parking light on at work yesterday? Yes indeed...I did. And did it run the battery flat in only 4 hours?....oh yes. Can you push start an SV?....nope. Did I have to borrow a car and jump leads (small ones otherwise the clamps are too big for the battery terminals)?....yep. Was I happy........not quite! So mind you don't leave your parking light on by accident or you could be stranded......

I know that there has been mention before of problems with the front cylinder spark plug getting wet and cutting out. I had not found, even in heavy rain, any problems with this up until a couple of weeks ago. I tried to start the bike one morning, having ridden it without a hiccup the evening before and the front cylinder just wouldn't start.

I took the bike in to my dealer and he confirmed that the front cylinder wasn't running. He had a long and expensive look at it and told me that the spark plug was
knackered. He replaced this and did a full service on the bike at the same time and I rode of happy but a little poorer. I have ridden in heavy rain several times since then without any problem until yesterday. Again, I rode into work without any problems and parked the bike in the underground carpark, only to find that when I went to start it up to go home the same thing happened, or rather didn't happen. The front cylinder wouldn't start.

So my bike is at the dealers again, and I'm waiting for his diagnosis. It seems a little strange to me that the spark plug itself would be shot.

I'm not very mechanically minded but from what has been said before, this type of cut-out was only temporary. I'm wondering why in my case the spark plug itself is being damaged...could it be faulty plugs? or perhaps a mechanical problem or the fuel feed or timing? Any suggestions would be welcome.

Also It would really help to know if anyone else has had this type of problem rather than just a temporary cut-out.

don't be concerned about riders coming from Scotland for the rideout having a wasted journey (not me anyway)... I used to work about 100 yards from the motorcycle museum and drove from Scotland to there every Monday morning and back home every Friday evening. I know the trip well... and I'm looking forward to doing it on the bike :O) Best time ever in the car was 2 hours 59 minutes from Dumfries (250 miles) on a Monday morning and worst time ever was over 7 hours going home on a bank holiday Friday night. I'm guessing the bike trip will be about 4 hours including stops. (good, see you there then!).

Hi, as a regular french "week-end tourer", I'm wandering if the rear "cowboy" type bags (with junction on the rear seat) are compatible with the presence of a passenger. Has anyone experienced this combination or have any good advise regarding bags + passenger on the wonderful SV ? Thanks again for your nice and helpful site

Thanks for the job of "Route Finder General" for the ride-out on 14th May. (oh please Roger....don't thank me...) I will try and keep in touch regularly through the site to let you know progress.

I am working on the principle of selecting a route, starting and finishing at the Motorcycle Museum, that has a mixture of roads - dual carriageways, twisty bits, technical sections, fast, slow, you know the kind of thing. (yep and it sounds good.) I've already been given a suggested route which takes about one hour to ride. My thoughts are to try and give a choice, by making a basic loop such as this either shorter or longer, say up to 90 minutes or so, (is this too long, or not long enough?). (I wouldn't want it any longer than 90 mins personally but it's upto the majority - if in doubt just choose the time yourself please).

I will mark the route on a suitably scaled map, with written directions as well for you less well qualified map experts, so it can be posted on the site in advance of the ride-out date.

If this sounds about right, great, I will carry on regardless. Anyone who wants to add their threepenneth (that shows my age), email me on blandfrw@estate1.bham.ac.uk. I won't promise to take any notice of you, but any constructive comments would be appreciated.

I will keep in touch.

Hello all! It's 8694 Miles Metzler Dave again (1mm to go! I'm booked in for a tyre change on friday). (got to be a world record!!)

In relation to Mr SV aka steves e-mail, My 4000 mile service ,they changed the oil, the filter and something else, I can't quite remember! it cost me about Ģ80-100 quid-ish!!! On my 8000mile service, the front pads were just over half worn and the same with the rear (I don't even use the rear!) so unless he's been gunning around, all the time, me thinks they changed stuff (including the plugs!) that didn't need changing and the labour costs seem a bit toppy.

I'd have a word, or just go to a better dealers. Just because you got the bike from them doesn't mean they have to do the service. I know it's a long way but premiere bikes in west wickham (0181 777 8040) are absolutely spot on, friendly and their prices are very resonable and no, I don't work for them! I'm sure there are others too!

Also, if any one has changed the fork oil themselves, can you post instruction on 'exactly' how you did it etc. I know the amount of oil is 490cc's, the brakes come off, the front wheel comes off and up inside each leg there's an allen bolt, you unscrew this a few turns, don't take it out, unscrew the top caps, let the oil come out, pump the legs to get all the oil out, do the allen bolts up, fill the forks up and then reverse the above proccedure! but i'd like to know from someone who has done this and how
the bike was supported etc. so I don't f**k it up or drop the bike!

Love the site. Just saw these cool seat cowls and undertrays....www.eurobikes.com and www.targa-acc.com

Ive just got back from my dealers after having the re call work done it was short and painless the mechanic had done six bike's before mine so I was relieved at this plus he was a top bloke at his job. I was concerned that ive done over a 1000 Miles with the Bike in this condition he reassured me that unless I had done some serious track days the bike was going to be fine.

I also asked questions about the clanking front forks his explanation was to do with the floating front disks that can sometimes do this when you hit bumps any input on this I would be grateful.

I would like also to hear from anyone that has had the re call work done and has found that there bike vibrates more on acceleration.

I am very impressed with the site - well done. It has made it possible to connect with other 650 owners.

If anyone is interested, Plans are afoot for a meet and ride-out this sunday 20th february in the beautiful Surrey countryside. First meet point will be Ripley high street (next to the A3 between the M25 and Guildford), and we will then progress perhaps via Shere to Box Hill for a cuppa and a chat- all sv650 owners are welcome. A suitable time would be about 2pm in Ripley, and thus at box hill at about 3.30. (I can't make it but let me know how many turn up...and if you have any pics send them in when I get back from my week away from the site).

Be forewarned of a potential, (no pun intended), problem regard to substituting stainless steel bolts on the SV650 as Nick suggests in his email of 14/02/2000.

If the stainless bolts are screwed into aluminum with no provision to prevent galvanic corrosion, the aluminum threads can turn to a white powder. The stainless bolt heads might look great while the aluminum threads are failing.

Cadmium plated steel bolts might be harder to protect externally but they are safe with aluminum.

At the following site is a galvanic chart that shows stainless steel three steps below aluminum. Cadmium is shown next to aluminum. Galvanic corrosion is more severe as the two metals are more separated on the chart.

http://www.ccfast.com/ccfcorrosion.html

If this subject has already been addressed and if no problem exists, let me apologize in advance for being paranoid.

Just checked your site and read some of the stuff on recalls and Just thought i would add that i just picked up my blue 99svs from it's third service 8500klms (still on original tyres and not finished yet!), bikes going very well apart from a front end that's getting tired, i mentioned to my dealer about the recall of the 2000 model in the USA and he said that in Australia nothing has been said about any recalls, he did however mention that Suzuki has changed the sump design on the 2000 model from the 99 and this may be responsible for the problems. (true..)

Just of interest he also mention some early V8 cars also had similar problems when going around corners and all the oil would go to one side allowing air pockets to form or something along those lines. i don't no if it's relevent but i just added it anyway. (do V8 car around corners?)

But then I get this email in from Ash (rutlea@hotmail.com) regarding the recall...who's right then??

Today I spoke to Mr Brendon Gunton at Suzuki Australia about my concerns with the recall of my SV650s 2000 model. I raised my concern at not having received a letter from Suzuki Aust in relation to this matter and he said that as the dealer involved had not yet registered my warranty Suzuki Aust had no record of my purchase and as such no idea that I owned an SV650.

Not sure who is at fault, Suzuki Aust or dealer but I was supposed to get a letter. Any other Australian SV650 2000 model owners in the VIN Number range who didn't get a letter?

Second concern was that I have operated my SV at sustained high engine RPM (200KPH+ for 15 Kms non stop a couple of times) and he indicated that Suzuki would be happy to test my oil to check if I wantefd them to (I had to ask him first though). Problem is that my oil was changed only 150km before recall so he said to arrange with dealer to have it checked just before next oil change(3000km for me). That made me a bit happier.

He also told me that no SV650 Suzuki motorcycles had suffered crankshaft problems during road or race use and that it was only the Suzuki test riders at Suzuki's test facility in Japan that had had any problems. Apparently these guys just flog bikes to death for days on end at this track (has a 6km long straight) and that was where the problem had been noticed. (and yet can't stop water getting in the fuel, make the finish last more than two days of road salt or make a camchain quieter...hmmm..(I do love the bike...honest!))

That made me feel pretty good and went some way to restoring Suzuki's credibility with me. Unfortunately, when I mentioned the other 2 issues I have had with my
bike (surging at 4000/4500 RPM with the original exhaust and very noisey camchain rattle) he said he had never heard of a stock SV650 in Aust that surged. He also indicated that the rattly camchain was partly caused by engine desigmn and was nothing to be concerned about. Never heard of a surging SV? He lost most of his credibility again right there and then.

So if Suzuki Aust is to be believed then no actual owner's should have suffered any problems in relation to loss of oil pressure and thus had no crank problems. Any one want to dispute this?

If everyone can beg / borrow / steal the March issue of Roadracing World & Motorcycle Technology or wait for it to show up on the web site (www.roadracingworld.com) there is an extremely informative and entertaining article by Mr. Kevin Duke entitled " Racing the Suzuki SV 650 : Giant Claims, Giant Killer."

For those who question the performance capability of the SV this article will make you believers!  (Mind you, this is an article about a very "race prepped" SV 650 but lower levels of meaningful performance improvements are easily attainable)  In a nut shell;

AMA (USA sanctioning body) pro-level racer Mark Ledesma "rode a Suzuki SV 650 to a podium finish in the final AMA Pro Thunder race of the 1999 season at Pike's Peak last September."  " ...Ledesma and the SV (ran with) and seriously challenged Eric Wood and his Ducati 748 and Shawn Higbee and his highly modified Buell at
the Pikes Peak race."

The engine was built out to 694cc's but " Due to time constraints before (the race) many parts were left stock including the standard 31mm intake and 25.5mm exhaust valves and camshaft." The tuner goes on to say that he couldn't source after-market   connecting rods in time for the race so the stock rods were heat-treated, rebalanced and additional oil holes bored.

"It has a stout crank, peanut-butter rods-you spin them and they stretch" the engine builder said, stating that some growth (lengthening) was measured in the stock rods after the race. (This is a racing engine remember!)   Bottom line is he reckons 87 hp at the rear wheel in this tune.

Ledesma also runs a Zx6R Kawasaki in 600cc SuperSport class and had this to say: " The bike (SV) really made my 6R feel like a piece of crap - totally."  (Again, this is a highly modified race bike with extensive and well engineered chassis mods, but nothing out of reach like" factory-only" components, etc. The technology is available to anyone willing to seek it out!)

The article goes on to say; "He ran 2.0 seconds faster on the SV than he did on his ZX6R..."  Also; "After the race in Colorado, Ledesma entered the Daytona Race of Champions event and he won the Heavyweight Sportsman class. In Lightweight Grand Prix, Ledesma was beaten only by a pair of riders on 250cc Grand Prix machines."! (Thugs!)  His new engine intends to be 802cc's!

There's so much more interesting information in the article but I don't imagine Roadracing World would fancy me loading the entire text here.   I'm sure they'll have it soon on their web site so prepare to be amazed! (as Len says...visit the Roadracing World web for more information)

Revill was asking about rear sets. I believe brg racing sells them.

http://www.brgracing.com

No word on price on the website.

I've just back-tracked to your site from our logs and I'd like to say a big "Thank-you" for including us on your links page.

As you say, unfortunately the SV650 is yet to make an appearance in Supertwins but we have the TL1000 as class winner in Street for last year so Suzuki as a manufacturer are performing well in Supertwins.

We like to think, in Supertwins, that everyone is welcome and that the club offers anyone (with only 2 cylinders, that is) the opportunity to start racing and go as far as they like. I myself am now progressing into top-gas this year from street and am passing the duty of riding my bike (gasp) over to another. Maybe, in time, I may decide to go top-fuel and really start going for it.

I hope that the SV650 site continues to be popular and will be placing a link on the Supertwins site to steer people your way. I'm also attaching the race dates for this year, in case any of your visitors are interested.

Round 1 - 29th April / 1st May
Round 2 - 3rd / 4th June
Round 3 - 28th / 29th July
Round 4 - 26th / 28th August
Round 5 - 23rd / 24th September

Howdy from Austin, Texas

Recently I decided that after 10 years and 80,000 miles, my old yamaha xv920rj (the eurovirago) was due for retirement, and started looking at newer bikes.

Last Friday late, I tried a 99 model sv650 with 600 miles on the clock, and fell absolutely in love with the thing. Ran right to the bank, and shoved handfuls of green stuff at the nice young lady who owned it.  Gosh, what a motor!

So Saturday I took it out to one of my favorite twisties near Lake Travis. Gee, this thing is fun, as soon as I got the chain adjusted (the light flywheel really makes for a lot of driveline snatch).

The problem is that I'm 6'3" tall or so (depends on the weather) and my knees don't fit in the knee notches in the gas tank. Sitting spraddle legged like that makes my back hurt, and I don't think it helps the streamlining either. I need to move the pegs back several inches to let my knees clear the bulges in the tank. I'm hoping that'll let me sit a little straighter, and my back won't hurt so much.

Has anyone out there had any experience with moving the pegs back on this model? It doesn't look too hard if you have access to a machine shop, but an aftermarket rearset kit would be a lot easier.

Otherwise, I might have to trade this lovely thing in for something more appropriate to my age. (no, don't do that! I'm sure I saw some rear sets at a reasonable price in the UK MPS catalogue - I'll dig it out and quote the contact info and part number etc...)

There's a posting, two up from this one.....

I've seen at least two posts , about starting the bike during the winter break. WHY do you do this ??

I'm not a MC mechanic but I would think that a cold start, is a cold start. And a cold start is always bad for the machine. Starting the engine several times during the winter break just increases the wear.

IMO the best thing to do is just to change the oil and spray the metal parts with WD40. And if you like taking your SV apart remove the plugs and give it a few drops of oil in the cylinders and turn the rear wheel in 5. gear. And then just keep the battery from collapsing by charging it once or twice during the winter break.

Please don't flame me, it's just my personal view. But if anyone has arguments supporting these cold starts, post it. (by cold starts don't they just mean starting the bike on cold mornings with freezing weather etc and not once/twice during a winter layoff??)

P.S. I know it's a bit late for this discussion, but what the hell, there'll be another winter all to soon.

Although I live in Worcester, I work in Birmingham with other like-minded lunatics who ride regularly around the NEC area. If you still want some help in sorting out a route or two for May, I think I should be able to oblige, with a little persuasion on my part. I'm sure I could direct a large volume of emails in your direction should you require it ;- )

Please let me know before I "set the hares running".

If your answer is yes, it will give me a good excuse to try some new roads as well before recommending them, not bad eh! (great idea...you just got the job!!! It would be a help and if you could I/we would appreciate it...)

hope you're well - it's me with the initials again. A couple of things to share / discuss :

1. Having ridden my SV through xmas / new year I've just returned from my 4000 mile service from Frontiers in Wimbledon costs as below :

- Air filter cleaner Ģ16.67
- Oil filter Ģ7.73
- Semi synth oil Ģ16.42
- Brake pads (rear !) Ģ14.68
- Spark plug CR8E x2 Ģ9.54
- Other lubricants Ģ4.00
- Labour a whopping Ģ87.50

Which is a total excluding VAT of Ģ156.54 (no idea if this is what you / others have experienced for this service). (I'll dig out my reciept but I know it wasn't that much! - why did they change the plugs and rear pad???)

2. As the SV seems to be a fairly common choice for new riders, those living in SW London may like to know that Morden College run a basic motorbike servicing course. The course runs over five consecutive Saturday mornings - I've just been on it and it's a great starter. Basics include - drum / caliper brake service and assembly, valve adjustment, tyre replacement, chain adjustment / alignment, basic electrics and engine assembly. Good instructors, they provide bikes to work on, excellent workshops and all tools - not bad for fifty quid. I haven't got the number to hand but if anyone's interested I'll dig it out.

3. Tyres - went out on my wife's bandit 600 which have bridgestone tyres, amazing difference in grip etc. Will invest in Dragon Evo's soon.

4. Thinking about a first track day this summer - "Bike Magazine" run a set for novices / those who have never been on a track. The tracks they use are Snetterton, Cadwell, Oulton and Brands Hatch - do you / anyone else have experience of any of these or of using the naked SV on tracks - and would I need to make any changes to the bike ?

That's it - keep up the good work, I should be there on 14 May. No idea on routes for a ride-out but there is pub called the Watermans on the way to Stratford from the museum where bikers meet on a regular basis - they may be able to help us ? Also around Meriden / Leamington / Warwick / Stratford there is a good mix of big open roads, duals, and twisty country roads - I used to live in Coventry but that was before I had a bike. (thanks for that, Roger has offered some help so I guess we'll take it from there..)

I'm glad to see the rideout is gathering such momentum. It should be a real crack and I'm really looking forward to it.

On that note, I need to buy a new bike to get there, on account of the one I currently own being wrecked (ah...). So I can fund the new one I need to sell the old one. It's a yellow S model thats done around 4000 miles.

The exhaust is scuffed, the tank has a fairly small ding and the plastics and sticky out bits will all need replacing along with the front wheel, forks and headstock (upgrade to GSXR maybe?). Other than that, the motor is fine and the frame is undamaged, as is the rest of it. Some pattern parts and bingo! back on the road. Unfortunately I have neither the mechanical skill or resources, nor the time, otherwise I'd do it myself.

If anyone is interested in this as a rebuild project or spares bike then feel free to mail me and maybe we can work something out.

Have been reading your web site since May 99 when I had ordered my SVS. I would say it is a must read for every SV owner. (that's a point...how many SV's have been sold worldwide? Anyone know?)

I have my SVS fitted with a high mount Micron exhaust, and considering to install a hugger. But as the Micron pipe is quite close to the swing arm and rear tire, anyone know those hugger from MPS, Powerbronze, ... etc which one best fit with Micron exhaust (and with good quality)?

Moreover, could someone recommand a after market screen with better wind protection?

PS...In Hong Kong, the dealer recalls all SV regardless of whether it is a 99 or Y2k models (better ask if my '99 UK model is affected then..thanks...)

paint codes for suzuki motorcycles are available at www.colorrite.com, they are the official paint people for suzuki and you can order directly from them

See paint codes posting below.

Itīs been a long time, winter isnīt just that great season for motorcycles but here a note from me again, the weather is getting some better and time to clean and polish our bikes, i just installed a Tech-line lower fairing, and looks this baby great.

Waiting for a solo seat cover from Tech-Line too, itīs still in development, but will be out this spring. Pictures will be send later, i will also put some stickers on it, but that will be a surprise i think it will look awesome.

Well i have to get to the point by now, and my problem was that some of bolts on my bike were already getting corroded (arrgghh) especially the engine cover bolts were rusted. Suzuki uses real cheap metals to keep the things together.

So of to my local hardware store and bought me a set of stainless steel inside hexagonal bolts. I wanted blue aluminium bolts but they were quite more expensive and harder to get. I replaced al the 6 sided bolts with the hexagonal ones, and lookes this great.

For anyone who would like to replace them too, I made a list with all the sizes you need. (this is what I like....thanks for going to the effort)

So keep up the good work, and lots o fun with your bike.

Suzuki SV650 / SV650S - Engine bolts replacement kit.

Replace those fast corroding factory bolts by Stainless or annodised aluminium bolts. Itīs fairly cheap, easy to do and looks great.

Use inside hexagonal bolts, so you can loosen and tighten them all with 1 single wrench.

Sizes needed for engine covers, brakefluid canister,  clutch and brake handles, front fender, front brake cable holders. All bolts are M6 so thatīs real easy to get.

2 x 65 mm
3 x 55 mm
3 x 50 mm
3 x 45 mm
2 x 40 mm
8 x 35 mm
9 x 30 mm
5 x 25 mm
3 x 20 mm
4 x 12 mm

couple of 14 mm stainless rings.

NOTE: donīt tighten the bolts to much cose those engine covers are made of plastic.

Hi, my name is Fede and I live and drive in Vicenza (northern Italy). This is a photo of me and my new SV...

I like your site and the bike you all have!!!

The red paint code is : Y7M and the yellow code is : Y9F

Whether these mean anything to non-UK'ers I'm not sure. Kevin.

Having just rung the helpline shown on the sv650.org site the very nice man told me that indeed my bike was affected. This is despite my last six digits (that's what he needed to know + date of purchase + reg no.) being 102189.

So to answer two things - it does seem to be the last 6 numbers that they are referring to but the numbers don't all fall between those given for machines stateside (at the bottom of the Feb postings).

Needless to say I was a little p*^#~d off to find that out as it's only just had its 600 mile service and now has to go back in and presumably can't be ridden till then. I wasn't impressed with having to ring to find out if I was affected anyway. The local dealer despite trying to be helpful haven't yet been sent the relevant part number or what is the exact task to be done. I understand the details are now on the way to Marriott's after they got on to Suzuki U.K..

Now I have to wait until all the above is sorted and the dealer gets back to me. Ho Humm........ (not too great is it...)

Here is an update from a happy Dutch SV-rider (see pix...).

I changed my MeZ4's after 9.500 km's (completely worn off!) to Dunlop's D207's. I should have done this way sooner, because the bike really cuts like a knife now (I keep telling you all...they make a big difference over standard Metz) :-)) (I think you all know what I mean...). (To be honest: I have no experience with other brands so far...)

I have fitted a Laser Oval Carbon (-style) end can (www.laser-jama.nl) after 4.000 km's. At 6.000 km's I got the bike serviced, and my dealer made the proper (motor-) adjustment to make it run good. It sounds like a D.... now (no offence intended) and it pulls better in lower rpm's. The exhaust only cost me about $400,=! (don't know what that is in pounds...) we should do everything in Euro's now....but I've just declared this site Euro free so maybe not ;- )

Especially for all Dutch viewers: I will try to make it to Birmingham on the 14th of May, so I hope to see you all there...! If you are going, you could let me know... (bush@euronet.nl)

you're going to come all the way to the UK just for a few hours? You've got me really worried now....I'll remind you it's only an informal meeting, bit of a chat, maybe a (sensible) ride out and visit the bike museum if you want...please don't expect anything too much or you're trip will be wasted...I was concerned any Scottish riders would have a long trip never mind people from abroad! PS...don't say Scotland is abroad, this is a British web ;- )

P.S. As soon as the weather is fine enough, I will take some pix of me and three of my SV-friends (2 yellow bikes, 1 black)

Click for images :     image 1      image 2        image 3

I have fitted my M4 exhaust on my '99SVX. I haven't been able to ride it yet, or to shim the needles yet due to colder weather and time.

My question is, anyone notice that the pipes glow ( Especially the back one) when reving the engine and holding constant rpm when parked?

I take the bike out of the garage about every three weeks and let it get up to temperature and run it. I've always run it up to about 5000 rpms and hold it there for a little bit ( 15-20 seconds) once warmed up. I've never noticed this with the stock system. ( I noticed this as the sun went down and it was getting dark.) I think maybe it's because the bike is now a little leaner since I've not done the needle shim yet. Anyone else notice this?

It may be due to the design of the metal to throw off heat, I'm not sure. ( I saw a dyno of a Triumph with an aftermarket exhaust that had the pipes glowing on a dyno run.) When I let off the gas and let it idle, the slight red glow (about 2-3' down the pipe - rear header) goes away within about 5-10 seconds.  Not really concerned, just curious to see if anyone else noticed that.

Pipe sounds great! Looks good too - I can't wait to test it out on the road.

In answer to the power loss question. M4 told me the best thing to do is shim the needles 0.020 and to turn the pilot screws three turns out. Said this gave the best results over a jet kit with their tests. I can see that the bike is leaner in the 4500 - 5500 rpm range and needs richened.

From what I gather, shimming will eliminate this - even with the stock system since the bike is a little lean there from the factory. I'd try shimming the needles by moving the washer that is on top of the "E" clip to under neath it. While the rear carb seems to have easy access, the front carb is a bit more challenging at a glance.

From what I understand, you definitely have to rejet with the snorkel gone. You don't actually bypass the filter, just get rid of a restriction that looks like it was put in for sound management. The BMC filter doesn't have the snorkel (it looks like a flat Italian K&N filter).

Haven't done mine yet, waiting for the exhaust change and then I am going to do the filter and have it dynoed.

i have just had my wheels powder coated gloss black, and the finish is good and seams to be hardwareing. the cost is Ģ30 per pair, the place Rochdale Lancs, UK.

mail me if you need more info.        p.s they do all colours

Quick question. A number of folks who've stopped to talk about the bike (which are many) have asked and recommended installing an ignition advancer for more power off idle. Has anyone out there in SV-land done this? Is it possible? Or is it stupid? (I've got a buddy with Ducati 900 ss/cr that I'd like to pink slip ;) (can you drop me an email to tell me how this works?)

Thanks for any info, p.s.: the site just keeps getting better and better. I've recommended it to a number of friends who are interested in getting a bike (thanks..)

My name is Roger Bell. I am racing an SV650. Do you have any information on a sealed airbox. We are using 41mm flatslides. Thanks for any info on this matter.

I received my 2000 blue SV650 two weeks ago with a number of Suzuki accessories already installed by the dealer, so I thought I would give you as much information as I could.

My bike came with the small flyscreen mentioned by Mike, the carbon fiber seat, and the tank protector. I was considering all of these myself, so I was glad to see the dealer buy them for my, and surprised that Suzuki made them (their selection is pretty poor).

In my opinion, the flyscreen is blocks a considerable amount of wind to the chest and neck, but I'm seventeen and like wind so I can take it for long periods of time. It is adjustable at 3 points on each side: 1) where the bar attaches to the headlight, 2) where the brackets attach to the plastic, and 3) where the brackets meet the bar. I have mine moved slightly forward, but it can go just about anywhere you want it.

The tank protector will save you tank, especially if you keep your knees in like you are supposed to! I do wish it was a little tighter; it seems to have a lot of wrinkles.

I love the carbon fiber gel seat! Since the bike can with the new seat, I have never ridden the bike with the stock seat, and don't plan on trying it out. The gel seat is softer than the Corbin seat on my dad's Ducati Monster, and I like the carbon fiber look. I have gone for about an hour at a time and my butt shows no sign of getting tired. I can't wait to go for a much longer ride.

I asked to see my dealer's accessories catalog, so here's everything else they offer:

1) A different small fairing, much like the 2000 Ducati Monster fairing. Since my dad has just traded in for one, I can send a pic of that if you like (Who knows, it might be convertible to the SV!).

2) Miscellaneous carbon fiber pieces. One of the included pics has arrows pointing to the pieces that are available, as this letter is getting too long (sorry Kevin).

Now, for one final note: the origin of the recall - as told to my dealer's service dept. by Suzuki USA. The problem has NOT occurred in the US.  The problem was uncovered by Australians road-racing their bikes (this is what happens with no speed limits), and was recalled before most dealers received the bikes with the problem.

Hope this is helpful to somebody, even without prices.

Click for images :  image 1     image 2     image 3      image 4      image 5    

PS....

I forgot to mention one of the carbon fiber pieces. There is a cover that fits under the handlebar mounts. I do not know if it works with the clip-ons, as the catalog was for the US.

Just been into my Suzuki Dealer about the recall, he said he had spoken to the Suzuki bods and they reckon if you wheelie your SV for long periods (club racers and head cases) you stand a chance of rear lock and engine failure as the oil rushes from the front of the engine to the back causing oil starvation to certain parts of the engine, apparently Ducati's have the same problem something to do with a 90 degree V-twin configuration. He said it  shouldn't affect normal riders and not to worry (I've heard that before!).

The Dealer also gave me the official 2000 accessories brochure, prices are as follows:

Tank cover (covers half the front of the tank) 27 pound
Gel seat (half grey/half black) 109 pound
SVS Coated carbon top yoke cover 21 pound (SV 22 pound)
SVS Carbon look top yoke cover 14 pound (SV 17 pound)
Fitted SV bike cover 112 pound!
Lower fairing assembly (all colours) 209 pound

Get out those credit cards!

As we're all likely to come from different areas here's a web site that may be of use www.streetmap.co.uk It not only has a Greater London street map, but also has UK road map as well, you can print off your route and stick it in your tank bag . you may be able to take the relevant page and post it on the web site, I'll try and send it as an attachment but please don't hold your breath.

I still do not have a route in mind for the meet. Another plea.....anyone with knowledge of the roads around the NEC part of the Midlands, can they please drop me an email with a suggestion of a circular route to take please? Thanks in advance from me. If I don't get one I'll just have to get the atlas out and heaven knows where we'll end up!

While at the Ally Pally Bike Show I spoke to some guy on the Suzuki stand about water in the tank and carbs and he advised me it would be sorted under warranty at my local dealer and they would shorten the drain pipe as well, sorry this may have been covered already.

still a brilliant site as ever, Thanks for your hard work Kev, see you on the 14th May....Doug the Thug (Don't Ask) (OK...I just gota ask....why???)

I asked and Doug explained....thanks very much....makes me feel so young... ;- )

When I finally got round to taking my bike test last year , after having a pact with my 17yr old nephew that we take it together .So we booked in at Vision Motorcycle training St Albans and I got my leg over a ( CG125 ) It did'nt take long for Darren , Johnny Boy ,and mark to sus that ridden before ,but not for 19yrs and the bikes I'd owned were BSA's Ducati and a Yamaha YDS7 all 250's and then regailed them with tales of bank holiday weekends down Southend were it was'nt safe to go out unless you were a rocker or Teddy boy and the bikes you dream't of were Tritons,Tribsa,s or OGRI's Norvin , So when I started to do DAS I turned up wearing my old body armour, ie - A triumph tank badge attached to a triumph triplex chain ( chromed ) for offensive & defensive use .and ever since then they called me DUG the THUG.
Wake Up KEV I've finished now, well you did ask didn't you. (eh? what? sorry, just nodded off there.....)

P.s I promise to be good I'll even leave the belt at home (Honest) see you on the 14th. (bring it along, and a padlock also, you can secure you're bike with it!)

this weeks MCN has mentioned a recall of about 750 in number of sv650's due to a fault in the casings beside the oil pump suction leading to possible seizures.

Most people will miss it because it is part of the text marked Harley recalls bikes with snapping handlebars. Please ask people to call their dealer or the Suzuki Helpline on 0500 011959

please post as soon as you are able (I have...)

This info from my dealer ; 1999 SV's have the oil scraper cast directly into the case, 2000's apparently do not and certain serial numbers missed the bolt-in plate in production. ( For benefit of those unaware, this "oil scraper" literally scrapes oil from the revolving flywheels to reduce oil induced drag and return/direct the oil to the pump pickup area.)

Your guess why Suzuki changed something which functioned well enough. Hopefully it was to make room for a 750 kit! ..... HELLO? (Have you ever seen a company this thick?)

Official Suzuki accessories this year for the SV (usa) look entertaining. Carbon fiber chain guard, headlight bracket, heel plates and covers for the top fork clamps. Two rather sad looking bug screens, and a fake carbon-look seat. Oh, and a little package tray out back for you globe trotters! No seat cowl as yet so I'm going for the Targa.

Also, you folks who ride all winter might try to locate a product called "Saltex". We used it a few years ago to neutralize road salt from our trucks, but cost was prohibitive for a large fleet. Spray it on, rinse it off; done and done. Sorry I can't be more specific but try with your local highway department or commercial plow/sand spreader dealer, or if there's a chemical engineer in the audience, how 'bout it?

ALSO....

See this URL for news on Cagiva's plans to use the SV650 engine in a smaller Raptor.....

http://www.motorcyclenews.com/BIKES/BIKES.asp?page=Earlier+Bike+News&passeddate=19/01/00

It took me just under 3 hours but I work real slow otherwise things tend to go pear shaped (from experience!). The Scottoiler kit looks well made and all the fittings and bits you need are included. I guess everyone will fit their slightly differently, it's all down to how you want the tubing to run and where you want to mount the main unit. It cost me Ģ65 from MPS.

The only problem I had was that when I lowered the tank down the vacuum hose that is joined to the fuel tap under the tank pulled away from it's connector. I did not know this at the time. I started the bike and it ran for a minute or two, coughed, spluttered and died. I could not restart it. Checking all connections highlighted the unfastened vacuum hose and I duely fastened it again, this time using a cable tie too. I still could not start the bike. I should have realised why but, as I have said many times, mechanics are not my thing. A quick call to John my mate soon had the answer (sorry to all those who already know this stuff, I'm posting it for the others like me who don't realise!).

As the vacuum had disconnected the fuel had ceased to be drawn into the carbs and the engine had been running on the fuel that was left over in the carbs, this only lasted a minute or two as explained. There was no fuel in the line or carbs. Usually there is a PRIME setting on the fuel tap switch but the SV doesn't have one so you have to prime the fuel line and carbs with fuel yourself. There are two ways to do this (as far as I know).

1) Turn the engine over and over on the starter motor which will create the vacuum and eventually pull the fuel through from the tank and 2) suck on the vacuum tube yourself to pull the fuel through. I opted for 2) and sucked on the vacuum tube (there is fuel vapour that your breath in as you suck and I had a great 5 minutes as the garage started to spin! Far out man......)

I started the bike no problem once the system was primed and the Scottoiler dripped as it should have.

Moral of the story......make sure the vacuum tube doesn't come off when you start the bike up after fitting and also don't run out of fuel, if you do you'll have to use option 1) above once you've found a garage and filled the tank.

IMAGES - I have not written instructions so view these images in conjuction with these words from  David and Doug.

I want to get an sv650 in the next couple of months, it will be a US model. My question is, having heard about the recall and oil leaks on this website, is the bike a lemon or are these just isolated incidents?  Almost everything I've heard about the bike is good, but these have me wondering.

There is more information about the recall above. Suzuki are doing the recall to make sure a small number of bikes don't have problems at high revs, I've not heard of any engines seizing. At least they are acknowledging there may be a problem and are prepared to sort it out for nothing. The SV does have other 'characteristics' which you'll read about in this web but I would still buy another myself and am sure most bikes have problems, none are perfect (VFR owners need not write in!).

Also, would it be a good bike for touring? Any help would be appreciated. Depends on your size and how much luggage you take and just how far you travel...anyone care to email Mark with a reply?

I had writen a month ago. I am the guy that had 2 sv's for sale from Canada. I just wanted to let everyone know that I still have one and I will give a good price on it since I am in the hole. It's never been riden.

Give me a call or email me if you are interested. If you have tried to email me before there is a chance that I didn't get the mail because my email was doing weird things for a while. So here is an adress that will work. Briguy11@altavista.com or give me a call at my home 865-583-3944.

PS These bikes have had the recall stuff done to them, and they are titled in the United States and you can register them in any state now.

Firstly, excellent web site.

I wonder if you could help me? I have been looking for fairing lowers or a complete full fairing for the SV650S. I've seen the Powerbronze attempt but I'm not convinced. The design just doesn't seem the fit with the rest of the bikes smooth curves.

Do you know of any other companies who manufacture lowers that are different to the Powerbronze model. I have seen a couple of pictures on your site of a few race prepped bikes with gorgeous full fairings, but as I understand they are from the USA. Are there any UK based companies who manufacture full aftermarket fairings.

Thanks for your help
Paul.

Has anyone tried to lower the sv650s....just wondering if it can be done .....and by how much....and if handling is affected??

I was at our local bike night here in Orlando, Florida last night and saw a SV650 with a small windscreen on it. I asked the owner where he got it and he said it was a Suzuki accessory! It looked perfect for the naked SV.  Not too big, not too small. It mounted to the existing headlight bracket on either side. Very tidy. It maybe stuck up 12" from the top of the headlight. Just enough IMO to keep the wind off of your chest some.

I called my Suzuki dealer today and inquired about the windscreen I had seen. He said it indeed was a Suzuki Accessory and I could have one for about $80.00. He referred to it as a "flyscreen". I think I saw a very similar windscreen on a local Honda Hawk GT a few months ago at bike night. The owner referred to it as a "flyscreen". I'm not sure if they're related.

Only one problem. It only comes in clear here in the US. I would like to get a tinted version. Has anyone seen this windscreen in Canada, England, etc.? Maybe y'all can get the tinted version? I think it would look better if it was tinted.

I just installed a Corbin seat on my 99 SV650S and thought I would share my expereience.

I ordered the seat in carbon fibre with a red welt. This is the same design show on the Corbin's web page (www.corbin.com) with the blue welt. First impression is the fabric looks great but the seat is heavier than stock and the fit and finish underneath is something to be desired. The thing that really bothered me was finding 3 rips in the seat which were fixed at no cost plus a reduction in overall price.

I only paid $245 Canadian which I thought was a good deal (my Suzuki dealer said it would be $500!). The brackets which tigten to the bike do not clear the frame bolts easily (read: must push hard to install and pull to remove). Also, the seat is longer than stock which causes you to push against the tail bodywork to clear the tank (my tank bra seems like a good idea considering the pressure). Once installed, it looks and feels much better than stock. You sit in the bike, not on top of it.

I have not yet tried the seat (SNOW) but am looking forward to it since I used to develop numb-butt after 1 hour of my 3 hour trips commuting every weekend. I hope this
helps anyone out there who is considering a seat. I was told the Corbin is better than the Suzuki gel seat by my Suzuki dealer and the gel would have cost more ($280) than I ended up paying for the Corbin.

On another note, I have received my Givi E35 Traffic top case and am awaiting the bracket for installation. I wil let you know how it goes. I have read about people who install the case to the rear seat so if anyone has a seat for sale (any condition) let me know.

Its yet another dreary English winters morning. The rain and salt are just waiting to eat more of my SV, and before leaving for work the gale force winds mean that I have to play yet another game of 'hunt the wheelie bin'. After my battle of wits with the dog (hers) - who has no intention of leaving the comfort of his embroidered blanket for
anything, let alone a cold and wet garden - I spend a further twenty minutes getting into protective gear and waterproofs before stepping out into the darkness associated with 6.00am.

But, as any SV owner will tell you, all this grief dissolves into a meaningless blur when the starter releases that reassuring growwwll and yet another adventure begins.

Or So I Thought.

What is going on? For the last three weeks of increasingly wet weather my SV has started to backfire, Power delivery is intermittent with a sudden loss of power followed by a rush of throttle. It seems to get worse the more the throttle is used. I find myself in the outside lane of the motorway suddenly reduced to 45mph at 8000 revs.

After booking the bike in with the dealer the next day (which happens to be dry and bright) they say they find nothing wrong at all, and have had no other complaints about this type of problem. However over the last couple of weeks this has been getting worse and worse.

Does this sound like a problem with the front spark plug in the wet? The bike is parked on the driveway all night (covered) but seems to start up most mornings without a problem, even when cold. It also only happens in the wet - but when it 'is' wet the problem remains all of the time.

This bike handles too well in the wet for it to be let down by these problems.

Help!

Sounds like wet getting into the front plug, people have had this before and changed them and the problem is cured (try using a fenda extenda, it stops water hitting the front plug) - also maybe water in the fuel, many people have experienced this as well, the drain pipe from the filler cap gets kinked/blocked under the tank and water backs up and gets into the fuel - I'm sure it will be one or the other. I had notified both of these things to Suzuki GB (in person at the NEC bike show in Nov 99) but they're were not interested and said they hadn't had any reports of it (they will have by now...)

Just a quick message about the price of the twin-can for the SV posting.

Renegade Exhausts want Ģ542 for a twin stainless steel setup. Johns SV (pictures in you image archive under Swona Exhausts) setup cost less than Ģ300, sounds the mutts nuts and gave a healthy boost in performance.

I wouldn't like to see anyone get ripped off. I'm sure John will agree about his twin can!!

There have been a number of postings on the removal of the snorkel  inside of the air filter, to allow more air flow. I tried this as well and got good results, better sound, better response. However don't waste your time trying to cut the snorkel out with a stanley knife. It is about 1.5mm thick and I gave up after about an hour. I then used a big soldering iron and it took about ten minutes to cut out the whole oval section on top of the air filter. Now it looks like a k&n or bmc filter. (I've mentioned this before but doesn't it screw up your mixture unless you get it dyno'd and set up again?? Also if you're bypassing the actual filter isn't there a risk of engine damage in the long term?)

Thought I'd drop in two pictures of the mountains near where I live in Brisbane, Queensland, Australia. This spot, Mt. Mee, is one of three awesome rides just half an hour from out of the city, the other two being Mt. Nebo or Mt. Glorious.

The only thing that'll spoil it is the local constabulary, there's one who gets his kicks picking on riders. Other than that, if you've ever been lucky enough to go through here you'll agree it makes for a great days worth of corners if you do the whole circuit. Blowing the R1 and R6 boys away with the SV is always fun :)

Click to view images :   image 1       image 2

oh yeah, if you know anyone who's put a full Yoshimura header and exhaust on their SV S, lemme know what they think.

Following David's posting which is for the touring kit, and in absence of time to give a detailed plan, here are some further tips. If you purchase the standard kit.

At first glance it seems that under the seat is the ideal position. Why use up that valuable space. Instead unscrew the Allen bolt that holds on the vented piece of black plastic on the left hand side of the bike. When you look in here you should see the rear spring. Look left and on the frame are two threaded holes. Guess what, the holder provided with the kit (two plastic rings with an L bracket and bolt) fits this nicely. Take off the nut and screw in the bolt. (I found I had to slightly bend the L-shaped bracket so that I could bolt the one side to the frame, as you say the supplied screw fits great, and have room to fit the bolt and plastic holders that accept the Scottoiler unit itself. If you dont bend it it's impossible to tighten them up properly. It's a bit fiddly but as explained there not drilling, it's hidden away and it's very securely fastened.)

Why put the reservoir here. Because it can be hidden nicely and is quite easy to get to. It is also easier to route the tube from here NO DRILLING REQUIRED and you do not lose any under seat space. Just superglue the tube holders in place on the swingarm and rear suspension spring shield.

I to, tried using the metal bracket attached behind the wheel nut. First trip out the black tip disappeared down the M60. Also when you adjust the chain, this bracket twists and bends. I found the better option was to super glue one of the pads (How to describe this.... looks like a little tunnel) with the piping in place and cable tie down until solid. (tip.... if you use a swingarm paddock stand, make sure you use it when installing the kit so that you can route the tube above the cups) .

And that's it. Just fill, prime and adjust the flow rate, close the vented panel and off you go. No unsightly tubes or bits sticking out, looks more like a standard fitting (all you see is the black tip) and no damage to the bike.

Thanks again to Jock for the suggestion on where to put the reservoir.

SEE MORE INSTRUCTIONS HERE!!

I'm impressed with your web site, its very good. I rang my local dealer, Slingers in Preston, to see what they knew about the service recall. They rang me back to say that it was only a few bikes, and they had only 4 of theirs, on the list and 2 of them were still in stock, so I and many others don't need to worry. If work allows I'm hoping to join your ride out to the NEC.

I am a bit confused about the recall info posted so far.

I picked up my new sv a month ago but it is still a 99 spec model. The complete VIN# is JS1AV111300100302. Whilst the last 6 digits do fall within the range of #s in the posting, I don't have the prefix "Y2" appearing on the VIN plate.

So do I ride with a foam mattress wrapped around my body waiting for the rear wheel to lock up or what? The official Suzuki letter in the posting mentions that the risk of seizure is only apparent at High Revs. This is a typically vague description which our yank friends (be fair...read Suzuki instead...) are experts at - what the hell does "high RPM operation" mean exactly? 10000? 13000? 15000?.....? (probably means above 9000rpm, that's what I'd assume anyway...it'll only rev to about 10500rpm anyway!)

Any views would be most welcome (hope you can find the time to post this one Kevin). (yes, I must have...recall emails will be posted because they are currently relevant and important...)

I have heard that the U.S. will not get the sport model of the sv650 because Suzuki is afraid that it would cripple sales of there Katana line. I would have to say that I would agree with that.

I'm interested in checking the condition of my carbs, and possibly raising the needles. Please can someone (Davyf, Jock, anyone?) post some instructions on how to get inside and do this? I need something simple, as I'm not really an expert.

I've written a couple of things that Kev has posted, if you've not read my previous ramblings, I'm sure that Kev can put some links in here to show you my writing style.

Here's Water In The Fuel and the Fenda Extenda posting that I used when I fitted mine....and it was spot on too! Nice work Ian...hopefully we/you will get a reply...

this weekend i desided to change the fork oil to rid the bike of the clunking sound we all seem to get.

the suzuki manual says 489cc per leg,i remove both legs and drained out the very poor excuse for oil suzuki have been seen to fit,and measured how much came out. 400cc in one and490 in the other,i fitted 20wt,oil which has firmed up the front no end.the balance seems better,i`l get a better idea when summer comes

I started checking your site in March or April last year, and find it a fantastic mine of information. In January last year I went on holiday,so bought a stack of bike
magazines to read by the pool. My 2nd bike test was in February so was looking to purchase my first proper bike.Well, after all the great reports and road tests the journos did in Tenerife (where the bike was launched) I was hooked.I had to have one.Major problem, no one could get hold of one for me.

I took and passed my test, but put up with my CG125, dreaming of a shiny new SV650S. March was upon us,and a stroke of luck came my way.My local importer
managed to secure 4 S's.He told me I could have one if I paid up there and then.I did,having not even seen one in the flesh, and haven't looked back since.

It's a canadian S in yellow.I changed my gear to match the scheme and take it out when it's sunny.(Sad I know) Unfortunately my jobs entails that I have to use my car for work everyday,so it's evenings and weekends only.

So a bit of history. I live in the biking mecca called the "Isle of Man".It's fabulous, lots of twisties and no speed limits.

I've just done the speedo change (Kms to Mph). It took me and a mate about 1.5 hours without a service manual,and am just waiting for a bit of light or the weekend to test out my needle positioning.The new dial fascia is from a company called "Seespeed" in Aberdeen (Scotland, UK), phone number 01224 733888 and cost my girlfriend Ģ25.00 (it was a Xmas present). Apparently the woman she ordered it with was very helpful,even taking 10mins to explain haw to do the fitting.

Finally, if anyone is coming to the TT races over here this year, please get in touch with myself. I'll hopefully have a gaggle of friends over with assorted machinery, and would love to ride out with a few more SV's.

Recently there were some postings (I believe) requesting information on painting the wheels. I was wondering what advice anyone has on that subject (has anyone done it? how did it come out? what's  the best way to go about it? etc.)

Also, has anyone had the bike itself painted?

As always, any info would be appreciated. (there's been a few postings asking about painting and many more asking about paint codes - i keep meaning to phone my dealer to see if they can help but haven't had time yet...I will do it on Monday...)

I fitted renthal handle bars on my naked sv amnd they make a world of difference in handling and control.

I fitted the "ultra low" streetbike bars. They are lower and wider than the stock bars, they do move you forward and are lower than the stock bars. They do not hit the tank at full lock, but it's close. i use my SV for track day's and the renthal's riding position does provide better control (Not as good as clip on's though). by the way the bike seem's to wheelie easier too. (that's OK then...)

MY SV IS LOOSING SERIOUS POWER SINCE THE M4 EXHAUST!!11 WHATS WRONG - CAN YOU HELP?JET KIT MAYBE?

An answer here?

Following on from my previous post, here's my "idiots guide to fitting a Scottoiler touring kit to the SV650" with pictures!!

Tools required: SV toolkit, drill, 6mm (1/4") drillbit, small flat screwdriver.

1) Remove numberplate and numberplate bracket from SV. Photocopy the bottom of the box and center this over your numberplate. Place number plate onto timber blocks and drill the 4 corner holes with a 6mm (1/4") drill bit. I used a 1/8" bit as a pilot before the 1/4". [See dscott1.jpg]

2) Screw high capacity reservoir onto rear mudflap using bolts provided. The top 2 holes will line up with the holes previously used by the numberplate bracket, the bottom hole can then be drilled using the 1/4" drill. [See dscott2.jpg]

3) Insert the RMV (plastic valve thing) into the holder on the right of the high capacity reservoir. From here you need to route the thin black (vacuum) tube to a place under the petrol tank. I chose to go under the tail light, inside the rear bodywork, down under the riders seat and into the engine compartment. To lift the petrol tank you need
to remove the riders seat then undo the 2 allen bolts at the front of the tank. Use the tank prop to hold the tank up (located under passenger seat). [See dscott3.jpg]

4) I was unable to locate the "vacuum hole" mentioned in the Scottoiler manual and resorted to branching off the petrol tap vacuum pipe [See dscott4.jpg] using the T-piece supplied. I tied up the join with copper wire as I felt it was a bit on the loose side. [See dscott5.jpg]

5) To route the oil pipe I drilled another 1/4" hole in the mudflap, passed the tube through the hole, down the rear seat strut then back along the swingarm (leaving plenty of slack at the swingarm joint). I chose to go along the top of the swingarm but you could go underneath if you have a hugger fitted. [See dscott6.jpg]. The pipe is held in
place using the supplied superglue and rubber conduit. [See dscott7.jpg]

6) The end of the pipe was secured using the supplied bracket which I fitted behind the wheel nut. This seemed the easiest option on the SV. [See dscott8.jpg]. The jubilee clip supplied was very tricky to tighten, you will need a very narrow bladed screwdriver for this and probably a pair of pliers to hold it.

7) Prime the oiler as per manual. Adjust as required.

The whole thing took 3 hours, but if I had the instructions above I might have saved myself at least 1.5hrs.

Hope this helps someone!!!

Now, anyone got anything to say about flipscreens and double bubbles (as per my previous post :o) (come on...help David out please...)

If anyone is still in any doubt about whether to upgrade their exhaust can for a non-standard unit, then read on....

I just got an MHP end can (they're made in Chertsey, but I got mine via Tigcraft in Farnborough). As well as sounding absolutely awesome (the bike now sounds less like a diesel generator and more like a v-twin should), the unit has sharpened throttle response, given a big fat boost to the mid range power and last but not least, it has taken a whole load of weight off the bike.

Although I just got the standard round alloy can, it doesn't seem to weigh any more than some of the fancy, big name carbon cans that you see in the dealerships. The result is that the bike feels significantly lighter to ride (seriously) and is also easier to wheel back into the garage(!)

Also just scrubbing in a pair of BT56SSs, so if anyone fancies a pair of Metzeler 4s with only 2600 miles on them, then I'm open to offers.

Just writing as I went to the Alexandra Palace Bike Show last sunday and saw the new twin carbon high-level exhaust conversion on the SV650S from Renegade Exhausts based in Brands Hatch. It did look the absolute dogs b*****ks and the fella on the stand reckoned it sounded like a 916 when they first started it up. He hadn't put it on the Dyno yet but reckoned it would make another 8 bhp as the single can makes 4.5 more than stock.

The bad news is that the complete system costs 652 english pounds including fitting (how much!), he  said just phone and turn up, if only life was so simple!. I can't find the phone number as I've lost the sales leaflet. Anyway keep up the good work.

PS.....

Here are the prices and phone number :

Single High level
s.steel round 271 pounds
s.steel oval 291 pounds
carbon round 306 pounds
carbon oval 326 pounds

twin high level
s.steel round 542 pounds
s.steel oval 582 pounds
carbon round 612 pounds
carbon oval 652 pounds

The phone number to contact Renegade in Kent is 01474 852 255 or visit www.Renegade-exhausts.com

Have just managed to bin my lovely blue SVS - when braking approaching traffic lights the engine surged, and (after a brief struggle with a rear wheel that wanted to accelerate, a front wheel that wanted to brake, and gravity) down I went. ARSE!

Left footpeg hanger / gear pedal / fairing panel all knackered. Double arse! Not much damage elsewhere - I managed to cushion the bike's fall with my left leg.

I know you've had some correspondence on this, but has anyone yet come up with a definitive cause / solution? Also, has anyone had anything (useful) from Suzuki on this? (nothing sorry to say...)

Below is a copy of a recent exchange of messages between me and Bill Metz from the USA. Thought you might like to post it.

Bill - if you read this, sorry for my reference to the SV650 meet - I forgot you were 3000 miles away when I wrote it.

----- Original Message -----
From: Colin Winslett
To: Bill Metz
Sent: Sunday, January 30, 2000 4:50 PM
Subject: Re: Wheelbase?

Bill

Thanks for your message. To answer your question I need to go back to the original posting. My concern was that readers might be under the misapprehension that the rear sprocket size must always affect the bike's wheelbase - it does not. I was merely pointing out the various other ways in which the wheelbase could be affected (assuming the basic frame stays constant).

You are correct in that if only the sprocket is changed, then the wheelbase will change but only very slightly. Now let's try some sums and understand the actual effect.

According to my handbook the wheelbase is 10mm longer on the unfaired model and the rear sprocket is 45 teeth (as opposed to 44 on the S). The chain is a 525 which, if I remember correctly, means the pitch is 0.525 inches (13.335 mm).

So the SV650 sprocket circumference is 45 x 13.335 = 600 mm and the SV650S sprocket circumference is 44x13.335 = 586.75 mm

Therefore the change is circumference is 13.26 mm.

Using the formula C = 2*pi*R, we can transpose to get R = C/(2*pi) where C = circumference and R = radius (obviously)

So the change in R = 13.26/2*pi = 2.11 mm which is the effective change in wheelbase for the 1 tooth change in sprocket size.

I am sure you will agree, this does not account for the 10mm wheelbase change.

Sorry to bore you with all this math, but these misunderstandings do need airing.

Perhaps we will get to meet at the SV650 summer gathering where we can don our anoraks and discuss other minutae of the SV650. (the only anoraks we'll need is to keep the rain off!)

Is there any one who have these following parts for my 1999 red bike. I downed my bike a couple of weeks after hitting some gravel and did mostly cosmetic damage to the left side of the bike. I need a gas tank, speed (mph) & tach gauges, head light, & gear shift assembly. I live in the Southern California. Please e-mail me at ngreen@dataquick.com

I'm looking to purchase a rear seat. Does anyone have a used one or takeoff from a new bike. Condition is not important- I'll be stripping it to mount a hard trunk (Steve is in the USA)

This is a picture of an SV prepared for the Italian Trophy. I saw it during the last Motor Show of Bologna on December, sorry for late.

I have an 2KY blue S model and I love it.I have changed rear spring , front fork oil an springs with an Hyperpro kit an my bike is very improved. In future I hope to buy a belly-pan and rear hugger ( JMV Concept ones are very nice...you can see them on www.eurobikes.com). Ciao from Rome.

Of course, this recall raises the obvious question; What, pray sooth, is materially different about the 2000 engine vs. 1999 that we can rest our fears of sailing arse over bollocks if I've got my '99 wicked up? And it will be, indeed, I can promise! (I'll be calling my dealer tomorrow to see if I can find out anything...if anyone else knows then please let us know...)

I am sure that a lot of people had contributions waiting, especially concerning the recall. Just had a full Micron system fitted (stainless oval), what can I say --- the dogs .

Improved power and torque, and the sound is excellent, but Mr plod might not think so. How nice of Micron to make the 'Race only' warning a sticker instead of
stamping it on the can. Have to recommend this system to everyone, and a big thanks to the guy's at the Motorcycle Centre Stockport for a cracking job. I will be taking their advise to heart and getting a Dyno Jet next.  I have a wav. file available (and dyno chart) if anyone wants it, just let me know. Its a bit big 1/2 Meg.

Still waiting for my Hugger and Fenda extenda from M & P, judging by the wait , these must be much in demand. Once they arrive, I will just have to sort out the front forks and the tyres.  Now have the manual, so if anyone wants info give me a shout and I'll try to get it for them. Also fitted a scottoiler (thanks to Jock for his advise). I
will scan in some images and knock up a set of distructions if anyone is interested.

Managed to finally fully test the flip screen with a trip to UK and back. Felt fresh even after the journey, so would recommend the screen to all.

I hope to make the ride out now that it does not conflict with the racing at Donnington, so hope to see you all there. I will be travelling down from Manchester, so can meet up with others on way, but will have to confirm closer to date.

I recently "downgraded" to an sv650s from an R1 for insurance reasons (the insurance companies are worse than the scum that steal your bike!).  When I first picked it up I was very underwhelmed by the performance. However as time goes on I have come to really like the little bike. It handles well (apart from a strange clonking sound from the front end over rough surfaces which is not too confidence inspiring), the brakes are good and I have come to enjoy its easy power delivery which is far more forgiving than the R1.

It is definitely a better bike for my daily commute of 50 miles through town & A-roads. How do you manage to get 160 miles from a tank of petrol? After 115 my reserve light comes on and I don't think I ride it that hard. (what's your definition of hard!)

My only real grumble is the shocking quality of the fasteners, wheel spindles etc which looked distinctly corroded by 500 miles and now dissolve further every day. I have tried both WD40 and silicone spray to try to prevent this without much success (I think WD40 is better). Anyone know anywhere that makes pattern parts of higher quality? (anodised ones might be nice).

The Metzler tyres are awful (do Metzler actually make any decent tyres?), has anybody tried Pirelli Dragons? - these were great on an old ZX6-R I once had.

I now plan to put a louder pipe on it. Can't decide between Micron full system (see Dougs comments above) or ART or Scorpion cans. Anyone know which gives best
performance/noise?

Great site - keep up the good work & maybe see you in May.

I've recently bought my SV650S in the year 2000 blue and as I'm riding again after 6 years I am really enjoying it. The only problem seems to be the poor front suspensions which make an awful noise if it gooes over a bump.

Oh, just to mention that this site helped me in making my choice of purchase.   Click to view image

Your contributor from the USA who posted the Suzuki US recall notice is correct - it applies to ALL markets. I have just had a telephone call from my dealer to let me know. A letter is in the post. Since I have not yet reached 1000 miles I am still below the 8,000 rpm running-in limit, so I am not worried and will continue to ride until the parts arrive and can be fitted.

All you second-hand SV650 owners should contact your nearest dealer for advice.

On another matter, the Two Brothers Racing web site (USA) gives dyno runs for the SV650 with their slip-on silencer, and has a video clip with sound so you can hear it. Tops! The address is http://www.twobros.com/sv650/SVslipon/svslipon.html

You can buy TBR kit in the UK from Carbon Tek on 01420 855855, or TBR will mail it to you direct from the USA. They say it can be fitted with no jet changes.

Reading the board it's starting to look like there might be some peeps heading south on the M6 to the meet that day. I'm not certain that I'll be able to make it, but I'd like to... and if I do, then I'll be coming down from Dumfries... that's the whole length of the M6 from it's source in Scotland... would be fun to meet up on the way ! (bloody hell! -   I hope it's worth it or you'll kill me!)

On a less happy note... I've started geting false neutrals and the winter corrosion is atrocious !! (I agree)

I saw in the archive that a few months ago roybach@btinternet.com fitted a smoke tint flip screen and fenda extenda.

I am considering buying both these items soon and was wondering how Roy(?) and anyone else who fitted them has been getting on, especially now they have been through the wind/rain/snow of winter.

I think the MPS screen is going to be preferable over the double bubble, this is partly due to Kevin's comments.

Incidentally, today I fitted a Scottoiler (full touring kit) to my SVS. The whole job took about 3 hours (I'm a bit crap at this sort of thing) but wasn't overly complicated. The worse part was trying to locate the vacuum hole - after 30 mins searching I gave up and cut the fuel tap vacuum pipe instead. Apart from a cordless drill I managed to
accomplish the project using only the SV's underseat toolkit.

The instructions were comprehensive, but were perhaps a bit too general (they cover all possibilities). For this reason I took some pics of the installation, if anyone is interested let me know. (I've ordered a Scottoiler today, should arrive next week - where did you mount yours? )

Oh, one other Scottoiler thing to watch out for.....I super-glued my finger to the swingarm! Took ages to get it free.

Do you know where I can get a riser for the bar, They are set a little low for me. The bar on the american version is too high and won't clear the fairing. I am in Canada.

I'm guessing this is globally not just in the U.S.??

I had my brand new 2000 blue SV650 for 3 DAYS!!!!!

****************************************************************

*SUZUKI

AMERICAN SUZUKI MOTOR CORPORATION MOTORCYCLE

January 31, 2000

SAFETY RECALL CAMPAIGN
2000 Model SV650Y
CRANKCASE OIL PLATE

Dear Suzuki Owner:

This notice is sent to you in accordance with the requirements of the National Traffic and Motor Vehicle Safety Act.

Suzuki Motor Corporation has decided that a defect which relates to motor vehicle safety exists in certain 2000 model year SV650Y motorcycles.
Suzuki Motor Corporation is conducting a recall campaign for these motorcycles. According to our records, you are the owner of one of these motorcycles.

Suzuki Motor Corporation has determined that the SV650Y oil partition cast into the crankcase permits the creation of air pockets near the oil pump inlet. These air pockets can reduce the oil pump's ability to provide adequate lubrication to the crankshaft bearings during operation at high engine RPM. Lack of lubrication can cause damage to the crankshaft bearings and can cause severe engine damage that could result in sudden engine failure. Sudden engine failure while riding could cause rear wheel lockup, disturbing the rider's ability to control the motorcycle, and could cause a crash without prior warning.

If your SV650Y has been operated in a low RPM fashion, as the owner's manual recommends during break-in or during typical street riding, your motorcycle should not encounter this engine lubrication problem. Only SV650Y motorcycles that have been operated in a high RPM manner, such as sustained high-speed riding or club-level road racing, face the possibility of an engine lubrication problem.

WARNING:

DO NOT RIDE YOUR SV650Y MOTORCYCLE UNTIL THE RECALL SERVICE IS
COMPLETED

Suzuki strongly suggests you do not ride your SV650Y until the oil plate recall service is completed. If you elect to ride your motorcycle to the dealership, operate the engine in a gentle, low RPM manner. Avoid sudden acceleration or deceleration. Be prepared to pull in the clutch lever in case of engine failure and rear wheel lock up. If you are concerned about your safety or the safety of your vehicle, trailer or truck your motorcycle to your dealer for your scheduled recall service. Contact the service
manager or the owner of your Suzuki dealership if you require assistance in transporting your motorcycle to the dealership for the recall service.

WHAT WILL BE REPAIRED ON YOUR MOTORCYCLE:

Your authorized Suzuki dealer will install an oil plate in your motorcycle to keep air pockets from forming near the oil pump inlet. Installation of the oil plate only requires the removal of the generator cover 'and rotor; no other engine disassembly is required. Repair time is approximately one hour and will be done at no cost to you for parts and labor.

"HOW DO I KNOW IF MY ENGINE HAS BEEN DAMAGED?":

Your Suzuki dealer has been advised to discuss your riding style and motorcycle's history with you. If your riding habits are normal, installation of the recall service oil plate will be the extent of the repair required for your motorcycle.

If you are concerned that your riding style and your motorcycle's history have included high RPM operation, your dealer will collect a sample of the engine oil when the recall service is being performed. The oil sample will then be sent to an oil industry approved, independent laboratory for analysis.

In the rare instance the analysis indicates an abnormal amount of engine bearing material in the oil, Suzuki will contact your dealer to arrange replacement of the crankshaft bearings and any other necessary components so you can be assured of long-term engine reliability.

PARTS AVAILABILITY:

Oil plate recall service parts for your SV650Y motorcycle have already been shipped. Suzuki has sent recall. service parts to the dealer from which you purchased your SV650Y. Suzuki anticipates all recall service parts will be delivered to dealerships during the week of January 31, 2000. If you cannot contact the dealer who sold you your SV650Y, call toll free 1-800-2552550 for your nearest Suzuki dealer.

TO RECEIVE THE FASTEST POSSIBLE SERVICE:

Suzuki understands that your riding time is precious. Our suggestion is to work closely with your authorized Suzuki dealer to get your motorcycle's recall service scheduled and performed as quickly as possible.

Schedule an appointment for the recall service to be performed

By scheduling a specific time that you can visit the dealership, your dealer will be prepared to perform the recall service once your motorcycle is in the service department. While the actual recall service takes approximately one hour, you may need to leave your motorcycle overnight to have the recall service completed.

If your SV650Y's engine oil is to be analyzed, your motorcycle will need to remain at the dealer approximately 72 hours. Suzuki has arranged expedited oil sample delivery to the laboratory, so analysis results will be reported to your dealer within approximately 48 hours of the sample being taken. If additional repairs or parts are required, your dealer will advise you on how much longer your motorcycle will be in for repair.

When you pick up your repaired motorcycle, please allow a few additional minutes for your dealer to prepare and complete the necessary warranty claim paperwork with you.

Bring your motorcycle to your Suzuki dealer If you decide to transport your motorcycle, rather than ride it, take care securing and protecting your motorcycle for transportation.

If you have special circumstances, discuss them with your Suzuki dealer

Suzuki understands that some customers may have unique or very difficult circumstances to overcome in bringing their motorcycle to the dealership for repair. We have asked your Suzuki dealer to work closely and flexibly with you to arrange alternative, but reasonable solutions for your special requests. However, please remember that each dealership has its own limitations in providing special assistance due to staff size, available time and dealership location. Your dealer can also consult with Suzuki
on other alternatives.

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS:

Your Suzuki dealer has been provided specific and complete instructions regarding this recall service. Please call your dealer if you have any questions. Your local Suzuki dealer can provide you the fastest response to your questions or concerns about the recall service. Your dealer can also contact Suzuki on your behalf if you have a unique question or concern.

If you have any difficulty having the recall service performed to your motorcycle you may contact American Suzuki Customer Service Department for assistance at 714-996-7040, extension. 396.

If you believe that (1) Suzuki or your Suzuki dealer has failed to or is unable to perform the recall service without charge, or (2) you believe Suzuki has failed to or is unable to perform the recall service to your vehicle within 60 days after you first brought your vehicle to your Suzuki dealer after January 31, 2000, you may submit a complaint to the Administrator, National Highway Traffic Safety Administration, 400 Seventh Street, SW, Washington, D.C. 20590 or call the toll free Auto Safety
Hotline at (800) 424-9393 (Washington DC area residents may call 366-0123).

If you no longer own a SV650Y or never owned one, please fill out and mail the enclosed postage-paid pre-addressed reply card. If you sold your SV650Y, please fill in the name and address of the person to whom you sold your motorcycle. This will help us notify the new owner about this recall campaign.

We thank you for your prompt attention to completing this recall service on your Suzuki motorcycle. We apologize for any inconvenience this recall campaign causes you. Your safety, satisfaction and riding pleasure are priorities for Suzuki.

Sincerely,
American Suzuki Motor Corporation


****************************************************************
Just thought you would like to see the letter.

Also Brett (bretbeau@westol.com) says

here are the VIN #s affected:

Y2100160 through Y2101652

So if your VIN Number falls on or between those numbers, better get your butt over to the dealer and have this fixed!!!!!!! ALSO, FOR THOSE WHO RACE THE BIKES, YOU NEED TO GET THIS TAKEN CARE OF BEFORE YOU RACE, ELSE YOU MAY BE TESTING YOUR NEW LEATHERS.......