CURRENT POSTINGS  FOR  FEBRUARY  2001 

Everyone has their favorite oil they would recommend using.  However a good article on oil for motorcycles are hard to come by. I am 69 years old and started riding steady in 1946. I've used many oils and so far as I am aware none have ever failed me. Keep the oil clean change it regularly, no problem. But this article I'm sending you from Interactive Motorcycle is very good on the subject of motorcycle lubes. 

I am using Mobil oil's Delvac 1300 Super in my SV. The viscosity is 15/40 and is a petroleum based oil. It works very well indeed and is cheap to buy. It comes in 4 quart
containers and costs a little under $6 for the 4 quarts. Check out the article. It's well written and backs up what I've been able to extract from different engineers of different oil companies. I enjoy your site very much.

http://www.activebike.com/index/features/oils/oils.html 

I've spent a fair amount of time at your site since I decided to build an SV-650 racer. I've found great information here so thanks for what must be a great deal of work on your part! The SV is finally back together after having the following modifications performed:

crankshaft polished and knife edged by Falicon ("supercrank" treatment)
Carillo cromoly rods
Wiseco 700cc piston kit
Megacycle 325 cams
R&D springs (required for these cams....stock springs coil bind)
minor head work
Kehin 41mm Flatslide carburators
M4 full exhaust system

The dyno graph is on a tight engine <500 miles running on premium pump gas. In race trim we should be able to pick up a few hp via fuel. The lower curve is the same bike 2 months earlier with the M4 and Kehins installed. 

I don't have a bone stock graph but stock SVs typically put out ~65hp on this particular dyno. The engine produces a very smooth torque curve and the lower end mods should ensure reliability. We could probably go bigger on the valves and spin the motor another 1000rpm or so as a possible future mod. This year though, I'm hoping for a smooth, reliable, giant killer!

Mods were performed by JD Hoard who can be reached at jhord@cybrtown.com  for anyone interested. 

Thanks for the great site!          thanks to you for reading it and making use of it!

itruns.jpg      svengine.jpg      sv_700_dyno.jpg

As promised ages ago here are the revised details for undertray fitting that does away with dodgy tie straps and the like as details in the FAQ. No doubt undertrays differ, but most will be similar. Most of the weight of the fender is removed but the remaining allows a firm installation of the tray.

First remove both seats, then the rear bodywork. There are four bolts under the seats for this, plus two screws underneath. Beware also that there is a locating lug at each side that the panels push into - carefull pulling pressure is required. Split the rear bodywork (the cable for the seat lock is easily removed) by removing the two screws holding the rear light cowl, and also the rubber washers were it fastened under the seat. It is easier to fit the undertray whilst wresting with one side of bodywork at a time.
Remove battery. 
Remove the rear fender - four bolts underneath into the frame, two near the indicators.
Saw rear fender about 10 to 15 mm rearwards of the clip that holds the tank prop (this leaves one lug left that holds the toolkit.) - SEE IMAGES CUT 1 AND CUT 2.You should only be discarding about a foot of fender. 
Refit using the four frame bolts. Place the rear bodywork (temp) back in position and offer up the undertray. Mine went under the bodywork at the grab rails, but on top of the rear fender. Slight trimming may be required, around the rear hand rails. Patience is required. If the undertray is under pressure from the battery box end, carefully warm up the inside off the tray with a ciggy lighter and bend appropriately.

Your undertray will now fit badly around the rear light! The undertray emerges at the light from underneath the rear body and swaps to being on top at the last 15mm. This allows you to screw through this into the existing lugs right at the rear of the bodywork. By careful filing you will slowly get an improvement. Again I had to use a ciggy lighter, to warm the undertray, and bend the edges for a better fit. The gap looks worse than it is - you will know what I mean when you fit it! 

Put the light cowl back on top and the rear seat to cut out the light and things will look much better.

I spent over half the time fitting mine (about 3 hours) shaping around the rear light. At the other end your undertray will locate over the battery box (mine was short and so I positioned the tray biased for the rear light, so the flange that locates under the battery box is 5mm short but this does not matter. When your happy drill through the battery box just to the side of the battery connection symbols, through the undertray and pass two bolts through (bottom B on image BOLTS1). Slowly tighten these and they will pull the undertray tight up to the rear fender - you may need 1" long bolts and cut them off after you have tightened them up. Replace the battery. At the other end, drill at the end of the fender where you cut it off and pass another two bolts through and tighten up (middle B on image BOLTS1).

Locate the circuit box from the original fender and relocate right at the back of the undertray drilling through from underneath, using two more bolts (top B on image BOLTS1).

Fit the indicators - I would recommend aftermarket flush mounted ones as the originals will point downwards and backwards due to the angle of the undertray where they relocate. I used the originals by making two  plastic spacers/washers beveled from 5mm to 1mm across the width, rotating these I could re-align the indicators straight (see image INDICATE1).

Finally drill the undertray right at the rear after bolting on the rear bodywork to pick up the two existing lugs - carefully! Fit the final two screws. I drilled the underneath of my rear light and filled the holes with clear glue. I then made a spacer that both angles the no. plate and brought it forward by 25mm- see image INDICATE1. The idea was to illuminate the plate from the rear light as you are now minus the little light that was in the old fender. It half works!

To finish it off I made a plate that has two sticky reflectors either side of the no plate ( any old car spare shop sells these) and fastened it on before the plate - this keeps it legal. 

You now have a sexy rear end! - See image REAREND. Incidentally my undertray was color painted, and I managed to fit it without a scratch - Its that easy if you are patient. My bike also has a rear hugger fitted and this does not interfere with the undertray even though you have put it on top of the old fender.

rearend.jpg      cut1.jpg      cut2.jpg       indicate1.jpg      bolts1.jpg

I have posted this to the FAQ section....

Do you know if anyone has fitted a set of footrest brackets from the unfaired model onto the faired model? 

I am assuming this would give a more comfortable leg position and may stop the stiffness I get in knees and hips on a long run. (I've got a 1700 mile route planned and need the comfort)

Kevin, thanks for an outstanding site. thanks.. Here are some additional details on installing a non-touring ScottOiler on a California-model bike. (I know you're in the UK, but we're readin' you all over the world!) 

SV owners lucky enough to live in California will find that the emissions equipment on their bikes makes ScottOiler installation a bit tricky.  Here are a few details I discovered when I installed mine.

I found that installing the oiler behind the left plastic access grill (the one you unscrew to get at the seat screws) was the way to go. When you open up that grill, you'll find that there's some plumbing in there that  doesn't exist on non-CA bikes. That means that there is no room for the mounting bracket suggested in main FAQ article. It took me a while to figure out exactly how to fit the oiler into that space and still make it adjustable.

1. Carefully bend back the bracket that holds the plumbing. I bent it about 1/2 inch, which created more room in the compartment. It bent easily. See the picture at http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/oilerMount1.jpg 

2. Superglue one of the flexible plastic mounting sleeves to the inside of the frame. Angle it so that the flow control on the top of the ScottOiler is accessible. See the picture at http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/oilerMount2.jpg 

3. I found that using the supplied wheel nut bracket was the most straightforward way to get the delivery tube into place. I had to bend it to get the tube exactly where I wanted it. See these pictures:
http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/tubeBracket1.jpg  and http://www.checkerbox.com/sv/tubeBracket2.jpg 

4. The ScottOiler instructions suggest you use the ScottOil bottle to prime the system. I used my mouth. It took a lot of puffing, but it worked, and avoided accidentally getting any oil into the air intake tube.

My name is Johan Jarleborg and I´ve just started a swedish SV650 site.  I´ve put a link to your site on my links page. Is it possible for you to put a link to my site on your links page? 

The address is:   http://hem.bredband.net/johan    Job done.

Please find attached some jpg images of my 2001 SVS.

I wasn't happy with the look of the standard machine so set about stripping it and putting it right! Mods are the usual things ie: undertray, suzuki lowers, seat hump (before anyone asks the hugger is homemade as the aftermarket ones are goddamm ugly) etc etc, as well as most of the mods on your freq asked questions page.
Purple hi level can courtesy of Scorpion (rejetted - goes very well - recommended).

Paint work is matching purple for the little bits, with the wheels yellow instead of silver and the stopping bits all picked out in gold. The bike draws a crowd when ever it stops and the most frequently asked question is :- "can you buy one straight from the box like this?" - No mate you have to spend another grand is the answer. 

My mates has a new 600 Gixer and gets annoyed when both are parked up, no-one gives his a second glance! (lol...) Oh the humble SV.

rightr.jpg      frontr.jpg      leftr.jpg      rearr.jpg      frontl.jpg

Following my last post in January, I now have my SV repaired and back on the road, God, I missed it. Fortunately, since getting it back, we've had some nice days and I've got a few miles in with the new Micron full system. It has made a noticeable difference in the low to mid range power, and sounds much better. 

Here are a couple of images of the bike with the Micron system. Reluctantly, I'll be selling the SV soon, as I'm moving up to the TL1000. (good luck...loads more power, a lot worse handling!)

micron2.jpg      sv1.jpg

here are some pictures and prices for our new exhaust systems.

dual system with alloy cans £766.00 inc vat
single system with alloy can £529.00 

all are manufactured from stainless steel 304 1"3/4 o/d

PIC00020.jpg      PIC00024.jpg

Great site you've got. Maybe you can add my Dutch contact mailing list to your link pages? done..

http://www.svcontact.com 

This is a Dutch orientated SV 650 (S) contact mailinglist (Dutch spoken)

Do you know where I can get a picture of a naked SV 650 with the front pointing to the left? ummm.....if there's none in the Images section of this site then try www.svrider.com  

Not much on the site about Remus so Here is my contribution. 

Having fitted Remus GP carbon cans to my ex TLS I was a great believer in them. Excellent sound reasonably quite at low revs around town and a real blast on the pipe. But with a journey through central London each day very risky. When I checked out the SV pipes on offer there were many good loud pipes around but many of them offered no return to the original pipe plus many of them were LOUD. I wanted some road pipes that looked good and had some sound. 

For price and looks the Remus was tempting, the oval ally were a good price and from www.slickbiker.co.uk  even cheaper. I took the plunge, with on order from them, very helpful and just 24 hour free delivery. The Remus road pipe looked the bizz but no instructions. I looked at all the site photos and decided if Renegade could hack off the old box with a hacksaw so could I. An hour later excellent transformation and the sound while not loud was a lot louder than the original with good bass note. 

So here are the pics, any queries email me  pgh@eurosport.com The rack and engine bars are Renntec, also excellent. I’ve put them on all my previous bikes saved many an engine case and the racks are 1st class.

SVREM1.jpg    SVREMUS1.jpg

Here's my street-legal SV.
I started with a 1999 SV650x....non-faired version. I added the Two Brothers exhaust, Targa seat cowl, Woodcraft clip-ons, SharkSkinz SV650 upper and lower bodywork, BRG Racing front fairing bracket, Lockhart Phillips mirrors, Zero Gravity windshield, flush mount headlight from AirTech, and a graphics kit from Tapeworks.
I had to relocate the turn signals and had to make custom mounting brackets for them. I also had to lower the front gauges in order for the bodywork and windshield to fit properly. I created my own bodywork  mounting brackets instead of using the kit from SharkSkinz. It took quite a while, but I've done all the work myself. 

As you can see, I've taken the liberty of calling my bike an SV-650R!  No such thing...but it sounded good at the time.

four.jpg three.jpg two.jpg

View the how to

I've just bought an SV after following hoards of others by using your web page to:

a) figure out what the bike is like, and then buying one that was listed on the for sale section. My bike is a parallel, and the headlights work like this. Dip beam consists on one headlight only, when I put main beam on the other headlight comes on full. It looks pretty stupid running around on dip beam with one headlight on. If there is an electrical whiz out there who can help or provide guidance to fix this problem that would be great. anyone help please?

Would love to come to a ride-out if you can organize one, if not, I'm more than willing to organize one up north, for the yorkshire/lancashire/north east brigade. more on this soon as someone has offered to organise a Northern rideout...so, there will be two after all...

I recently had some bad luck, and thought I could try to help others avoid the same problem. 

Since the gas tank cap does not appear to be water tight (mine wasn't), you must be carefull if you wash your bike in cold weather. Water got trapped in the copper(?) vent tube that runs through the inside of the tank to the rubber tube, froze, and ruptured the line inside the tank. About 3 gallons of gas spilled onto the garage floor. The tank had to be replaced (under warranty, thank goodness). 

So make sure that vent tube is not blocked! Hopefully no one else will have this happen to them.   This problem was known about over a year ago and many suspect that the blockage causes water to build up and back up into the fuel tank. This has yet to be confirmed 100% but it's likely as quiet a few have suffered from water in the fuel. This is the first time I've heard of the line splitting though.

Is there anyone out there from Northern Ireland, specifically near Belfast that I can join up with for bike runs, I'm from Newtownards and am getting bored with the same routes on my own (sad case eh!) 

e-mail hen.brown@virgin.net 

Would you happen to know the best brand of motor oil I can use in my SV? I was wondering if I should use Castrol GTX, Mobile 1 Synthetic, or one of the 4 Brands of motorcycle oil?  dunno, I'd like to know too....

Here's some pictues of my bike for 2001. You can see most of the modifications I've done so I won't list them all. Keep up the great work with the website.

DSC00036.jpg      DSC00034.jpg 

Well, its been awhile since I wrote and I realized I never sent in my finished, (well almost) bike. I really like the pic of that "option moto" mag, it looks like the Raptor front end but on the sv. I like how he painted the gauges too, very slick. 

Anyhows, much love to you all 'on the other side of the pond' for your help last November in dialing in my 2000 sv. If you want more pics of the bike my site is: http://www.frontendtech.com 

calonleft.jpg

I love to see what everyone is doing with his/her SV650. I decorated my bike with new CFlook small turn signals, a CFlook rear tire cover, an CFlook extenda fenda (not on the photo) and a front shield.

I bought the bike last september and these are his first pictures in the Dutch snow.

brommer5.jpg      brommer7.jpg

sorry to bother u , any way of finding out if dave at (dave turner@cablenet.co.uk)still has the tyres for sale , i can not get through to him dave!! if you're there get in touch with micky

this small artical that was written last year may be of some interest to other sv riders?

Page1ofbikerarticle.jpg  (166kb)    page2ofbikerarticle.jpg  (167kb)

my name is josh and i use to ride a 2000 red sv650,but a few months ago i was in an accident which was not my fault. i dont remember any of it, but i do remember asking how my bike looked and the paramedic said that i should worry about myself. i was in the hospital for two weeks, only remember the last few days. 

my back was broken in two places, tore ligiments in my knee, and fractured my ankle (not to mention all of the road rash). 

my bike was totaled beyond repair, i have a few pictures, but no scanner. it has been almost 5 months and healing fine, except the sadness that i feel everyday without my bike. the feeling of riding a bike on a cool fall and spring afternoon while the sun sets is indescribable as im sure you know. 

this may sound wimpy but i cry sometimes when i think about the feeling the freedom the peacefulness the joys of riding. the woman i am going to marry loves me 
very much, as do i love her the same and try to more. she has requested that i not ride ever again. that brakes my heart. 

this e-mail has no point but just to tell my feelings to someone who rides. thanks for listening.

and the answer is....... well, I don't really have one but i hope the situation sorts itself out Josh.....

I just found your web-site and spent all day long reading it. I found about 20 pictures of other people's SV650's with some extra fairing (or windshield if you like) on their naked babes (sorry, bikes) which really inspired me and I thank you in first place for a complex site with so much useful information. I just sold my old Yamaha XT 600 '93 and was looking for something new. Something comfortable, reliable, "user-friendly", nice and easy to maintain. Guess which beauty crossed my path... :) 

Funny thing - I never rode a SV650 and dont know anyone who's got one, yet I am 100% sure I want the bike and no other. I am aiming for the naked one because this is my 2nd motorcycle season and I fear anything I could go too much fast on...

Anyway, I Read about this year's meeting of SV 650 owners. I am from Czech republic and that's pretty far from England. I don't plan to convince you to set your meeting any place else but maybe you could point me to a place (web-site) where I could find some SV fans closer to my place? If anyone can help Vitek please drop him an email as England is a bit too far to come for a Sunday rideout!

And the second reason I am writing you is similar to the first one: how do I join your mailing list? (haven't been through all your pages ? couldn't make it in a day ? so I don't know how to do it and I have so many questions already. I would like to ask/post)    Thanks in advance, best to you and all SV-ers. I don't have a mailing list. You're getting me mixed up with svrider.com where they do have one. If you need more information from this web trying reading all the archives since October 1998 or login to the forum and post a question.

P.S. If I make it to buy my "piece" till Sunday May 13th 2001, I might be able to come to England and see all of you. I would make it a holiday in my work. :)

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